Thursday, December 20, 2012

I can see Paradise by the dashboard lights


I really do not know where to start... but here is the table of contents I am planning on discussing.
1. first and foremost- FREAKING out about leaving Africa after 4 months, 16 weeks to the day. and probably not returning for a while, if ever.
2. beach trip to Mombasa and Diani in Kenya. woah. what an undiscussed paradise. seriously most beautiful beach i have ever placed my feet on, and yet never heard of it.
3. about to go to italy, a.k.a home, a.k.a family, a.k.a Sophie don, a.k.a the last leg of my year of adventure and wild travels- why does this have to end? BUT HOW FREAKING EXCITED AM I TO SEE BRETT TOMORROW! AND AVETTS IN 11 DAYS! NOPE, BUT YESSSS!!!!! YES! YES!

Last night I fell into my last night time slumber on the continent of Africa. I have know been to 4 African counties, have many connections to South Africa and have developed a true love for the country and the variety that exists on this beautiful and unique continent. I am now on the plane back to Joberg where I will catch my flight to Paris to meet daddy and Brett (ahhhhh- we'll get to that). This is such a tease, cause I feel like I'm returning to South Africa- gonna go buy some airtime, use some rand and each something with butternut or avocado, but I only have 4 hours and then its goodbye. The memories the country holds, the people I spent it with....the people...oh you 23 little suckers who rocked my world signing up for SIT Cape Town Fall 2012. I could NOT have asked for a better group- we had our flaws, we had our moments of tension, we had our lows- BUT MAN DID WE HAVE OUR HIGHS! HOLY MANDELA! was it perfect? was it a dream? it certainly feels like it, because in no way, shape or form was I ready to say goodbye to those kids last Thursday hours 2-6 am. I miss you special ones a lot, you know who you are, you helped and watched me change and I cannot imagine my life without you- not being able to have you all wake me up at 12 or ask me what the plan is that night or rotate whose gonna screw doing work that day to play with me cause we all know libraries aren't my game. Ok enough reminiscing, yes I will miss South Africa. Cape Town is a city I know like a home city, whenever I hear it discussed from now on I will have this strange attachment to it and wanna talk about it with anyone and everyone who knows anything about it. I will monitor Mandela's health like a stalker cause man that guy is great and I refuse to see him go. I hope to return here again, I want to revisit the places I have left my heart in and loved and see all the things I didn't make it to. I want to travel this continent with no agenda and see what I find and learn. I know officially feel like I can say i have been to Africa and not feel like one of those idiotic people who refers to this continent as a country, because it is much to diverse to be referred to as one thing. Cape Town alone has 150.000 definitions, but Africa does have this special communication of love between its nations. South Africa is not really like Kenya, but they have a common bond of being a part of this infamous continent. 

2. So what did I see in Kenya? Well look ahead and I will stop blabbering and give you a tour through my famous photography. On Monday morning, after a weekend in the mansion owned by VIjay's uncle who works for the US embassy being catered to and living like kings and queens, we hopped a flight to Mombasa.
Mombasa is the second largest city in Kenya, although it feels about 100 times bigger. Nairobi is a very spread out city with not much bonding its different neighborhoods. i saw a very small portion of the city, full of mostly embassy workers and international families living in luxurious homes and eating at 5 star restaurants with not much local cuisine. It was a fabulous vacation and one I will never get to experience again, but was not how I usually travel or what I did in South Africa- except for maybe Stellenbosch week, yoh. We arrived in Mombasa at 10 am on Monday with no plans or accommodations- college style ya know? We attempted to use a travel agent at the airport but that shit failed hard and fast. We googled a backpackers in Diani beach, where everyone had told us to go and were set on our way. Although I was harassed and targeted in Nairobi, it was NOTHING compared to Mombasa. The prices people tried to charge me even for a ride into the city, I was told by the airport not to pay more than 150 shillings about $1.75, and people were asking over 2000. We found a shuttle for the appropriate amount and set on the drive of a lifetime. The poverty we drove by was the most I extreme I have ever seen. It was incomparable to the townships in South Africa, or to the rural village because the shacks, if you could even call them that, were adjacent to the main dirt road that everyone takes from the airport to the city center. Everytime we stopped kids and parents alike would swarm the window I was sitting next to either attempting to sell me sunglasses, usb drives, bracelets or just asking for money. It was crazy and then the city was even more insane. We immediately went to Fort Jesus, which is one of the main historic sites in Mombasa- I know how scholarly of me. We took a tour, learned some history and then back into the big city for more madness.
Another tuk tuk ride (3 wheel cabs i thought only existed in India) through the packed streets- and I mean PACKED, like so over crowded, no concept of lanes, lights, blinkers, stop signs, none of that. pure madness. We attempted to go to the markets and wandering the streets overflowing with stalls selling everything and anything, but was just too difficult with people following you for blocks and jumping up at the sight of my skin. It was pretty crazy and unfortunate because I really would have loved to shop! So we hopped into our tuk tuk to South Diani with Charlz (yes that is how he spells it), the rastaman and headed onto the ferry and through the towns along to South coast. Again, extreme poverty lined with streets, shacks, kids playing in the dirt, tons of homeless people, all along side the road that is used to transport tourists to this beautiful beach locations. Very "Welcome to Africa" if you will. We eventually made it to the backpackers, which was sweeeet! Actually the most relaxing place I have ever been. Neither of us brought phones or computers, we had Vijay's cousins cell phones to call cabs and stuff, but were completely disconnected from the world. No one even knew I was staying there- very remote. We immediately hit the pool considering I was covered in more sweat than I thought humanly possible and read, journalled and relaxed until dinner. They have a little restaurant there where you order whatever you want and they'll just bring it to which ever of the world's comfiest couches you happen to be relaxing on when its ready. Delicious fish and chapatti (a Kenyan naan/ tortilla if you will) and some light conversation with the others and it was off to bed in our sweat chamber by 9pm. Heaven. Next day we had what I think is what they call paradise, we cabbed to a beach pretty far down the coast, because the beach near the hostel is public and just filled with beach boys trying to cell you things, not very relaxing so we splurged and treated ourselves to the day of our dreams. When we arrived at this private beach we bargained for a cabana and two beds and Abdul, our new best friend, said he would prepare us a seaside lunch with fresh fish and salads and such. We went all in and sat back and enjoyed the life of luxury. First off the ocean- holy shit does the Indian ocean have it made, not too salty, warm but still refreshing and clearer than the blue sky hanging above us. I could have stayed in that water forever- in fact I did, until our lunch arrived. Another holy shit!
Abdul was not kidding, he brought us a legit feast. No utensils, no problem.
 Me and Vijay feasted on fresh grilled fish- heads attached as you can see I loved that- fresh chapatti, rice, the best oranges and bananas of my life and the most beautiful presentation I have seen in any 5 star restaurant. It was magical. and DELICIOUS! What happened next was not as magical, upon arriving home I discovered that I had been severely sunburn. Now I know you all think I exaggerate everything and am such a drama queen- take me as seriously as ever right now when I tell you, it has been 2 days and I am in the most agony I have ever been in. Sitting on this plane I purposefully spilled a glass of ice water all over my legs and stomach just for some relief. It is awful. My bathing suit is tattooed into my body and I honestly do not think it will ever go away. That whole theory about how Africa is missing an ozone layer is definitely, 100%, no doubt about it true. This shit is excruciating. Aloe is my new best friend and I am just praying the comments are minimal at this Christmas I am on my way to attend. My face does look like I just got a pretty bad chemical peel so thanks for that.
That night we continued on our luxurious vacation and dined at the famous Cave Restaurant, yes a restaurant in a cave with the most spectacular menu. It was delicious and super fancy- the transport was not used to taking people to the local hostel. Woops. The next day we hit up Forty Thieves beach bar- essentially the Beachcomber of Diani. It was yet again, ideal. We sat on couches, I was covered in towels and never exposing my skin to that sun again,  and the water was more beautiful than I had remembered. They had a dock in the middle to sit and lie on, oh and I forgot to tell you there are camels on the beach there! Yes actual camels that you can ride along the waters edge- due to their resemblance to horses I opted out.
We ate another delicious seaside fish lunch, this time with plates and silverware, but equally as phenomenal and drank our day away. Hopped another tuk tuk to the airport- due to their lack of shock absorbers I was in agony the entire ride with this new fragile skin I am wearing, and flew back to Nairobi for my last night in Kenya/ Africa. Wow! That was a lot, but you got the gist- Mombasa = crazy city, beach = paradise and picture esque, backpackers = awesome time and now = severe sunburn.




selfies on the beach




our lovely accomodation

its officially over and i couldnt be sadder

3. I drifted off to sleep intermittently throughout writing that and am about to land in Joberg, where I will buy my last South African flag stickers and say goodbye to the place I called home for 4 months. But then- trying to look on the bright side, of which it is shining- I get to go to Italy and see my family!!!! I AM SO EXCITED, honestly though- so pumped to see how much Brett has grown, and how excited both parents are gonna be to hold their little girl again. Really do miss them and Christmas in Italy is only the highlight of my entire year so things ain't too bad. Life is actually quite perfect lately and I feel extremely lucky to be getting to do this. i feel like I am consciously living through the potentially coolest part of my life that I will look back and talk about to my work colleagues, kids and grandkids and thats just crazy that I just experienced that peak. T- 12 til Paris reunion with Brett and dad, and then 2 more hours til Bessie throws those big arms around me. Can't wait. 

As for this blog- hmmmm. I guess I am no longer Cape Hoppin, but I will think of things to write about and maybe make a new plan for when I am back in the U.S of A, which is in less than 2 weeks and then i'm going to see the Avett Brothers in their home state, my dream come true true true asajklfndisvfidosbfidsadflns don't think I'll make it if I start getting excited and thinking about it now so I'll just shut up and ride the awesome wave that is my life right now. 


dont hate me cause im beautiful




Jambo! (it's like shalom or aloha- it means everything)

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