Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Robben Island

This past Saturday was field trip day for us SIT students, so at 10am I was retrieved by my favorite bus taken to the Langa visitors center for a "walk about" and then off to Robben Island- although at this point that was still tentative because it was raining. Although bummed to be missing the Biscuit Mill, I was really excited for Robben Island.
The walk about was kind of weird, I mean I get the point of it as showing us how toursits and other school groups see Langa as a township to "ooh, ahh and wow" over, but it just took away all the personality and community-ness I have seen living there and turned it into a museum. We walked around the dirtiest parts I have seen thus far and were bombarded with small children asking us for money and hugging us. Although adorable I was on the verge of tears watching these little children hug my leg and tug at my bag. It was interesting, but definetly uncomfortable and I now get why people think what they think of townships after a 30-minute tour interacting with no locals, hearing no stories, etc.
Late as usual, classic Africa time, we then rushed to the ferry station, grabbed sandwiches (although nothing is quick in a 24 person group), boarded the boat and set on the ride. My nausea quickly set in and going 100,000 miles an hour was not helping anyones stomach. We met our tour guide and proceeding on the walking tour, there is also a bus option, of the island. Our guide, Tulani, had served at the prison for 8 years and was truly incredible. He shared amazing stories with us, everything from how he was the best soccer player on the island, they had saturday games to horrifying tales of the torture of the guards. One story in particular was so chilling and got him so upset he had to leave the room, could not finish and left an impression on all of us that I will never forget. He told us of the day his father came to visit him and how excited he was, because visitors were only allowed every six months. He got a phone call to his cell, in which 12 men slept on mats, with no heat, saying his dad was not coming. His father had come to the island, was shot six times and died there. Tulani has suffered so much in the rooms he walks through every day as a guide. I found myself continuously wondering why he does this as a profession, he was released in 1990 and returned as a guide. He told us at the end that he does this to share the stories so that future generations will never suffer what they suffered. His stories were honest, beautiful and sadder than I could have ever anticipated. 
I was deeply affected by him and found myself so sad on the bus ride that followed the walking tour around this huge island, which is one of the most beautiful places in the world. It is also one of only two places in the world where you can see one wonder of the world from another, being able to have 360 views of Table Mountain (see below). Table Mountain is the only one, where you have an overview shot of Robben Island, cool fun fact I thought!


I was not expecting how sad this excursion would be and was just blown away by being in the cells and courtyards that so many prisoners were held in for standing up for themselves. Tulani is a brave and confidant man beyond words. 
Tualni showing us a picture of Nelson Mandela and Walter Sisalu talking while incarcerated at Robben Island

As for the boat ride back, got to sit up top this time cause the rain had past. Much less nausea this time, however MUCH more wind. To the extent that we could not really stand without using all of our body strength to hold ourselves up. 








I managed to stand up for one picture, clearly a failure or the most hilarious thing to ever be taken....
yes I am too confused why only my hair is doing that. 

sobanana (see you later in xhosa....which I am currently in class for...don't get too mad mom)

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